AC day13 - Muktinath

With the possible exception of giving birth, yesterday was, physically, the hardest day of my life. It started at 5 am from Thorung High Camp (4850 m) in the cold with a couple inches of fresh snow on the ground. The night had been rough with freezing temperatures and a midnight toilet call in spite of not drinking anything  after 5 -  a definite no-no at that altitude. The one squat toilet they had was a sheet of ice - the temporary toilet was anywhere you could find out of the wind.  After a quick breakfast of tepid coffee and porridge, I packed up and was on the trail before 6. The first 4 hours was relentless up, up, up to the top of Thorung La pass at 5416 m. I've seen claims that it is the highest pass in the world but have not researched it to know for sure. It is definitely higher than I've ever been and each step was hard won. Towards the top I was down to 10 or 20 steps then a stop until my breathing slowed. The feeling upon reaching the top was amazing. I suppose this was my Mt Everest (though I think the Everest base camp is higher than I got!).

The end is in sight. The little hut on the left sells tea!

I only spent a couple of minutes at the top as the wind was bitter cold and a clear threat of inclement weather was high motivation to keep moving. The next 5 hours was a relentless down, down, down to Muktinath (3800 m) - actually Ranipauwa is where all the lodges are - about 20 minutes from the temple which seems to be about all there is to mark Muktinath. The last 1.5 hours was in a heavy snowfall that left more mud than anything else. The reward at the end of the day was a free room with attached bath and a western-style toilet (score!), followed by a delicious yak burger and warm sea buckthorn juice. Today is a day off.

As expected, the views all along the way have been just spectacular. I will post as many pictures as possible given the slow internet here. But first - some things I've learned along the way!

- Don't eat large portions of white rice for two days in a row. Even if it's mixed with vegetables.
- Snickers should be classified as a superfood.
- A hot shower is an unimaginable luxury that I will never again take for granted.
- There is a place of exhaustion where you no longer have the energy to be afraid. All available energy has to be focused on that next step. In thinking of those who have perished in the wilderness, I imagine they were no longer able to focus on the next step - but they were not afraid.
- People are inspired by those who don't let being old and fat stop them.
- There are places where people live in frigid cold with little heat, haul their water, and shit in a hole out back. These places are not all that hard to get to. The people are humble and among the happiest I've ever seen.
- A 70 cent tip can cause a great deal of excitement to those who have little and expect little.
- Kids are the same everywhere - it's the adults who differ.
- Mentholatum. 'Nuf said.
- Every first aid kit should have something to help you go and something to make you stop. Even if you've never had a problem doing either.
- Willingness to carry something to the top of a mountain is the true definition of need (though I definitely had my sins - to the tune of at least 2-3 kg).
- Patience and determination can sometimes trump youth and strength.

Million step view

For a price, this guy would carry your bag while you ride to the top.
My pride wouldn't let me do it.

Some pictures from previous days:

Well, one. More later. Now food.

Annapurna Circuit day 3 - Tal

Not gonna lie, today was tough  but I'm feeling back in my element and so happy to be here! Overall, I'm making much less distance per day than anticipated but the good news is I have no time frame so it's all good.

Day 1 consisted of 2, 2 hour bus rides and a 9 km trek to a 100 rupee room in Bhulbhule (110 rupees to 1 usd atm). The tradition along the AC is to offer cheap or even free accommodation with the expectation that you will eat in the on site restaurant. So far simple meals have been around 2-4 usd making this the cheapest place I've been so far. I understand it gets more expensive to eat farther up the trail as everything has to be hauled in. Accommodation is very basic however. Day one offered no shower, no wifi, just a thin mat on a raised platform with wooden planks and a corrugated tin roof to keep out the weather. Last night in Ghermu was slightly better with a cold shower. Tonight is a treat - hot shower, wifi, 3 inch mattress - and still only 100 rupees!

The first 2 days the terrain was what I'd call foothills on steroids. Lovely terraced landscapes and small villages. Today entered the massive Himalayas. It took me close to 9 hours to make 12 km. Hard won elevation gains were disappointingly lost to long downhill stretches. But the views were wonderful. The last hard uphill push, I was accompanied by a herd of goats that I swear were trying to figure out why it was such a struggle for me.

Next... shower, food and sleep! Tomorrow is a new day.

The view from last nights accommodation

Magnificent waterfalls everywhere