Wednesday, February 4, 2015
Wellington - a city after mine own heart
Monday Feb 2
Bus ride from Auckland to Wellington close to 9 hours for just $38. I found another bus company after I'd booked it that would've been only $18! Rained off and on all day.
The landscape of the north island is amazingly varied. Much of it farm and grazing land but variations every 30-60 mins from open fields to forest even a barren volcanic wasteland for a stretch. There's an enormous inland lake a bit north of Wellington called Lake Wairarapa. Many places here are named from the native Maori language and much like in Hawaii many are impossible for us 'mercans to pronounce (what do you do with 4-5 vowels in a row?).
Tues Feb 3
I'm really liking Wellington. Today was sunny and bright high around 74F, windy (as I suspect it always is being on the coast). Walked the pier, went to the library for lunch then toured Parliament which was almost as easy as walking into city govt in the states. Life seems much more simple and innocent here. I've been told by a couple of Kiwi's now that crime has always been low but is somewhat on the rise now.
Parliament
Hostel room is above a nightclub so very noisy even with earbuds in but it is clean compared to the one in Auckland and I like my bed by the window. Only one other (interesting female dentist from the Netherlands) in a 4 bunk room last night and it was fine, 3 others would've been incredibly crowded. Feeling pretty tired today so I've decided to stay until at least Thurs, maybe longer.
Weds Feb 4
Hike up Mt Victoria to view the city from on high then on to the Te Papa Tongarewa museum. Was really too exhausted to take full advantage of all that the museum had to offer. Most interesting part was about an hour long conversation with a Maori woman. New Zealand had no human population until about 700 years ago when Polynesian people arrived by boat. Europeans started showing up in a time frame similar to the US. The Maori battled amongst themselves over disagreement about what to do with all the foreigners. Many profited off the trade and welcomed them others saw what was coming and the loss of their way of life. Many died as a result of diseases brought here. In the 1840 the English managed to squeeze out the French and sign a treaty (the treaty of Waitangi) with over 500 Maori tribal chiefs. This is where it gets interesting. The treaty that the chiefs signed said that the land would be loaned to the British crown for a period of 99 years and then would be returned to the Maori people. The translation presented to the Queen had no such provision. The Maori people are full fledged citizens with representation in the NZ parliament and as such are fighting for the return of their lands in the courts. I'm sure it's a complicated debate with both sides being right (as in most things) but it was interesting to hear the Maori side. They are dedicated to keeping their culture and language alive and the Maori language is posted everywhere alongside English. Tattoos and body art are a big part of Maori culture. The treaty was signed drawing the facial markings of each of the chiefs. Apparently there was a time when the Maori were killed for their heads - for the art drawn there. They are fighting for return of these remains of their people, she said there are still 14 about in the world including 2 in New York.
Traditional storehouse called a pataka. The picture really doesn't do it justice, the carvings are magnificent thousands of hours of work went into this small building. There was a sacred meeting place even more elaborate next to it but we were asked not to photograph it.
View of the harbor from the beautiful open square built for the enjoyment of the people
Thurs Feb 5
About to board ferry to Picton. First night in hostel booked. I'm really getting anxious to find a vehicle for a bit of my own space and to stop lugging so much stuff everywhere I go.
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