Monday, August 31, 2015

Kakadu and beyond

Picked up my camper van rental last Friday and headed to Kakadu Natl Park.  I don't know what I expected exactly but it was no where close to reality.  By the end of Friday I was sorely disappointed.  The drive was much like the drive out to Watch Hill station - mile after mile after mile of short somewhat sparse trees and scrubby brush. Took a walk to a swampy place (they call them billabongs an aboriginal word perhaps?) that had a lot of birds and was somewhat interesting but honestly I was thinking what the hell.  

Mile after mile after mile of this...

Then it got better. A LOT better. Saturday was a whole new day that started much like Friday with a drive to Ubirr.  On the way, I took a walk through a micro climate rainforest along the east alligator river. Got sight of 3 different crocodiles in the river and had the eerie feeling that there were many many more. I have a video of one swimming down the river that I'll post it at some point if it turns out. This was the walk that had a woman's only area men weren't allowed by aboriginal culture. Apparently there are men only areas as well.
Ubirr itself was the place that made the entire trip worth doing. It's a 1 km walk past several extensive aboriginal rock art sites ending with a climb to spectacular views of the surrounding areas.
Flood Plain - during the rainy season this whole area fills with 2-3 meters of water
Rock Art Site

Stone country - there are an estimated 10000 rock art sites in this forbidding country - about 5000 have been documented
Third and final walk took me through an interesting rock and canyon area that sort of reminded me of Utah.
Kakadu has more to offer but many places require a 4 wheel drive and more time than I had. So on to Katherine and Nitmiluk Natl Park.
I stopped at the information Center in Katherine yesterday to inquire about hikes in the area.  The woman there convinced me to check out the free public hot pools down the street. The heat here has been oppressive - I spend every day bathed in sweat.  So I thought I'd just go for a quick dip before heading up to the canyon for a hike. 2 and a half hours later, I was finally able to talk myself into leaving. The spring source was maybe 200 yards upstream so the water crystal clear and beautiful. There were a series of pools,  the last of which had a short waterfall into it. It made an infinity pool space where you can swim among the bubbles endlessly without ever going anywhere, or wedge between the ladder and the waterfall and let the water massage sore neck and shoulders. Or go up and slide down the moss on the waterfall into the pool. Too much fun.
I did manage to hike a bit late yesterday and get a glimpse of the gorge that defines Nitmiluk.  Heading back north today. There is another way into Nitmiluk to a place called Edith falls. Apparently they have put up a metal fence to keep the crocs out so swimming is allowed there.  One night there then on to Lichfield for my last 2 nights.

Croc video:
 

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